Wiener Schnitzel, apple strudel, the Prater, Schönbrunn, and the Beautiful Blue Danube? The Viennese are proud of the fact that in Austria's capital, even the sights are really worth seeing. Beyond the well-trodden paths, however, a completely unknown, kinky, even morbid Vienna can be found with less icing and dreams of waltzes and more living and dying (after all, the saying goes that Vienna is the most beautiful place in the world to die in). The city lives up to its reputation from unaccustomed perspectives as well: a slaughterhouse in which hippie idol Leonard Cohen was once a squatter; a museum with murderers; an 18th-century looney bin shaped like a UFO; and a store for erotic underwear in an Archbishop's palace.